Suspect a Damaged Skin Barrier? Here's How to Repair It

From the discomfort that comes with tight skin after cleansing, or makeup that clings to dry patches, a compromised barrier is no secret. It's a common skin problem that many Aussie women face, partially thanks to our strong UV rays. While this rings true, there are also many reasons why your skin may be reacting this way. Let's uncover a few of them and also explore methods for repair.

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Here's What Your Skin Barrier Actually Does

The skin barrier (stratum corneum) is one of many skin layers, acting as the outermost layer of the epidermis. It protects the skin from external factors which could cause barrier damage, including environmental pollutants. This skin layer acts like a brick wall, holding together skin cells through a lipid blend that acts as mortar. The "bricks" are bound through the skin's natural fats (ceramides), waxy substances (cholesterol), and fat building blocks (fatty acids).

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How Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) Works

TEWL is a naturally occurring process within the body, meaning that a small amount of water loss is normal. This is done through water leaving via the epidermis and, as a result, evaporating into the air. In the event of your skin's lipid barrier thinning, this results in excess moisture escaping into the air. Should this occur, it's a key signal that the skin's barrier function is not operating as it should.

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What is the Main Cause Behind Skin Barrier Damage?

Many find themselves wondering about the main cause behind skin damage. However, the answer is often more simple than they'd initially assume. The leading cause of a broken barrier is poor skincare habits that gradually lead to fragile skin. It's important not to overlook these to keep your skin's health in good condition.

A Poor Skin Barrier Routine

Overexfoliation (Over 3 Times Weekly)

If you're exfoliating too frequently, or using harsh product formulas, it will negatively impact your barrier. An associate professor of dermatology at Harvard Medical advises to "steer clear of heavy exfoliants". This can range from incorporating abrasive acids, scrubs, and retinoids within your routine. This melts away the skin's lipids, leaving the skin's barrier more exposed and, as a result, compromised.

Hot Showers (Expedites TEWL)

When you take excessively hot showers daily, this accelerates the rate of moisture loss in your skin. This then disrupts your skin's "acid mantle" — also known as the skin's normal pH balance and minor acidity. When this happens, many experience symptoms of itchy, red skin and other forms of irritation.

Overcleansing (Exceeding Morning and Night)

Cleansing too often, and too harshly, causes a stripped skin barrier. It comes as a result of removing the protective sebum layer. If you're unsure, feel for that "squeaky clean" feeling in your skin, as it's an indicator of over cleansing. Harsh ingredients such as sodium lauryl sulfate are also key contributors.

Little to No Sun Protection (Inconsistent SPF Use)

According to the Cancer Council, "Australia has some of the highest levels of UV radiation in the world." This means that direct UV exposure without sun protection can be more harmful to the skin than you may think. UV rays accelerate the breakdown of skin lipids, meaning that your barrier can't offer the protection that it did.

*Please note that the above is a general overview of habits you could potentially be partaking in. For further information, enquire with our team at SDL Australia or a dermatologist to gain a deeper understanding.

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Get to Know Intrinsic and Extrinsic Factors (the Ones Out of Your Control)

While neglecting skincare for barrier retention is a leading cause, there are also other factors out of your control. Intrinsic factors refer to what occurs internally within your body, while extrinsic describes outward factors. It's important to make the distinction to recognise your skin's triggers.

Intrinsic Factors

"Intrinsic" involves the skin's naturally occurring ageing process and hormonal shifts, such as puberty and the monthly menstrual cycle. Genes, however, primarily dictate skin barrier retention, including skin conditions. A ScienceDirect review notes that atopic dermatitis and psoriasis cause higher TEWL and a disrupted barrier. This is precisely why an eczema skin barrier is compromised by nature.

Extrinsic Factors

The external factors which lead to a broken skin barrier widely vary. This includes some level of UV damage (yes, even with sunscreen), and air conditioning used for both heating and cooling. Poor lifestyle habits, such as weak stress management and not getting adequate sleep, are also contributing factors.

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How to Repair Skin Barrier Damage: A Quick, Four Step Skin Reset

When it comes to skin repair, less is more. This means removing those harsh exfoliants and ingredients, and instead honing in on moisture, moisture, and more moisture. See your simple skin guide below.

• 1
  Cleanse

  Once in the morning and twice at night, apply a gentle cleanser for sensitive skin. This can look like fragrance-free, non-foaming formulas. Cleansing should take no longer than thirty seconds.

• 2
  Serum

  A good barrier-repairing serum will be formulated to support and rebuild the skin barrier's mortar. Use a gentle yet concentrated serum morning and night to prevent further damage such as TEWL. One barrier-building ingredient is niacinamide (B3), which enhances ceramides for the skin.

• 3
  Moisture

  Given that skin hydration is fundamental, use a deeply hydrating yet gentle cream day and night. Apply moisturisers with skin-rebuilding and deeply nourishing formulations. Beneficial products include hyaluronic acid moisturisers — its star humectant ingredient draws moisture into compromised cells.

• 4
  SPF 50+ (daytime)

  Excess UV exposure over time accelerates the breakdown of barrier lipids. To protect against this, wear a non-comedogenic sunscreen with the maximum SPF available (50+). Reapply every two hours and immediately after swimming.

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How to Repair Your Skin Barrier Naturally (Main Do's and Don'ts)

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Strengthen Your Skin Barrier: The SDL Four Phase Pathway

A compromised skin barrier requires a specialised approach. At SDL Australia, we aim for a custom pathway built around your skin goals. Our baseline four-phase SDL pathway follows through skin preparation, correction, refinement, and retainment. We hone in on barrier strengthening from the very first visit, using methods such as controlled chemical support.

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FAQs

What Are All the Signs of Skin Barrier Damage?

When the skin is compromised, it can manifest through several signs. Look out for a stinging or burning sensation after using products that were previously fine. Your skin may have heightened redness and irritation to wind, heat, water temperature, and touch. The skin texture can feel like sandpaper and bumpy because of breakouts, and it may also peel and flake.

What's the Difference Between Dry Skin and Eczema?

While these two skin conditions can occur alongside one another, there are key differences. Eczema is a chronic, diagnosed skin condition with an inherent impaired barrier. On the other hand, skin dryness is temporary and subsides upon application of over-the-counter products like creams.

How Long Will it Take for My Skin Barrier to Improve?

The time it takes to restore a skin barrier varies anywhere from two weeks to several months. However, this depends on the extent of damage inflicted, ranging from mild and moderate through to severe. Alongside this, the adjustments made to your skincare routine are also variables. This includes cutting out active ingredients and consistently applying cream to the skin.

Can I Continue to Wear Makeup with a Damaged Skin Barrier?

Makeup can sometimes worsen irritation when your barrier is compromised, especially formulas with fragrance, alcohol, or heavy oils. Where possible, give your skin time to heal before wearing makeup daily. Instead, try mineral-based, non-comedogenic formulas if you do need coverage. Also, remove makeup gently each night to avoid stripping the skin further.